Lexus. Select Make. Every driver has their own unique taste in car audio, but there's no doubt everybody wants to listen to favorite music with premium sound. Customizing your Lexus audio system with an innovative subwoofer and/or speakers is the best way to dramatically improve its sound quality. Lexus IS speaker / sub installation products gathered on our digital shelves make installation a breeze. You will find a vast selection of wiring kits, adapters, brackets, and everything you may need for flawless installation. Shop with us for premium components required to get the job done lightning fast.
Turn to our extensive selection for the right wiring kit that comes with a large battery cable to transfer current to the amplifier, power-on wire for the stereo head unit, ground wire, and RCA adapters to run your new speakers. If you need to install a pair of high-tech subwoofers, Lexus IS speaker / sub installation products will provide a reliable connection for safe and lasting performance.
If you need to install additional subs, look for the finest Lexus IS installation hardware available on our website. Whatever audio device you want to install, we can satisfy all your individual needs as we offer premium installation parts that hit the sweet spot in terms of quality, function and reliability. Get ready for your morning commute or long weekend trip with fantastic music roaring out your Lexus. Related Categories.
Luau party games ideas. By Jeffrey Smith - November 11, 2014 This article applies to the Lexus IS 250, IS 350, and IS-F (2004-2014). The water pump in your Lexus is designed to push coolant from the radiator into the engine block and over the heads to cool them down. The heated water is returned to the water pump and pushed back into the radiator. The air that blows through the grill and fins cools the fluid further.
This system is what prevents the car from over heating and causing severe engine damage. The water pump is the heart of this system; without it, fluid does not move and the engine will almost immediately overheat and potentially seize. If your water pump fails, you need to replace it immediately; otherwise, you should change it at the manufacturer's recommended time. Tools Needed. 3/8' ratchet. 1/2' breaker bar.
Torque wrench. 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm socket wrenches.
5 and 10 mm Allen or hex wrenches. Channel lock pliers. SST 1 (special pulley holder tool) Step 1 - Remove plastic engine covers Pull off the plastic engine covers. The large plastic front cover is held in with 11 clips. It's found on top of the radiator facing the front grill. Remove the V-bank cover sub assembly, which covers the main engine, centered under the hood.
The scoop faces the front grill just over the radiator. Remove clips from this cover. There's another clip near the front. Remove all 11 clips from the front cover. There are only a couple of bolts that hold these parts together.
You do not need to remove the engine under cover RH or the No. 2 engine under cover.
Engine under cover and rear LH under cover. Step 2 - Loosen water pump bolts Loosen the four bolts holding the water pump pulley in place before removing the serpentine belt. The tension from the belts will help keep the pulley in place while unbolting it. This can be done later if the special pulley holder tool (SST 1) is available, but it's not necessary to do it this way.
Four bolts on water pump pulley. Step 3 - Remove the v-ribbed belt Turn the bolt on the tensioner clockwise just enough to loosen the belt and remove it. Use a breaker bar and a 14 mm socket to get leverage. Torque this tensioner to free the serpentine belt. Serpentine belt diagram. Step 4 - Remove serpentine belt tensioner assembly Finish removing the four bolts on the water pump pulley to remove it completely. Next, remove the belt tensioner pulley and the idler pulley.
The tensioner pulley (green circle, figure 8) is left-hand threaded, so turn right to loosen. The other pulley (red circle, figure 8) is normal thread, so turn left to loosen. Serpentine belt and tensioner assembly. Step 5 - Drain engine coolant Attach 3/8' vinyl tubing to the petcock valve at the bottom of the radiator.
You'll need to twist the white nut to open the valve and drain the radiator coolant. Unscrew the radiator cap to help the coolant flow more smoothly. Draining radiator fluid. Step 6 - Remove coolant reservoir Remove water reservoir by removing the two 10mm bolts. Pull off the the two hoses connected to the cap as well. Remove 10mm bolts circled.
Step 7 - Disconnect hoses from water inlet Disconnect the clamps holding the six hoses to the water inlet. Use pliers to relax the clamps holding them on. The red arrows point towards hoses needing to be removed.
Radiator inlet and outlet hoses. Step 8 - Remove water inlet Disconnect the five hoses, four bolts, nut, and water inlet.
Remove the water inlet housing gasket and water outlet pipe O-ring. Unbolt the water inlet at these four points. The red arrows point to O-rings needing to be replaced. Step 9 - Remove injector driver Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the injector driver and move it to the side. Unplugging the box is not necessary. Bolts that remove injector driver. Step 10 - Remove water pump assembly Remove the 16 bolts (12mm) on the water pump.
There are three different sized bolts securing the water pump, so work smart and keep the different bolt sizes together. Be prepared for a waterfall of coolant to flush out after removing the water pump. Get a bunch of rags ready and cover the floors, cover the pulleys, etc.
Water pump assembly. Step 11 - Install new water pump Hopefully, those bolts from the last step have been organized, as they'll need to be re-installed. Refer to figure 17 for the location of the large bolts (A), medium bolts (B), and short bolts (C). Torque large bolts to 21 Nm (214 kgf-cm, 15 ft. Medium and short bolts must be torqued to 9.1 Nm (93 kgf-cm, 6.5 ft. Lbs.).
Figure 17. Large (A), medium (B), short (C) bolt locations. Water pump installed. Step 12 - Re-Install water inlet Be sure to replace the O-rings mentioned in Step 8 or else there will be leaky water pump problems. Torque the four bolts to 7 ft-lbs. Step 13 - Re-install pulleys, belts Re-install the water pump pulley and the other two pulleys that were removed.
Tightening them to their recommended specification of 15 ft-lbs is difficult without the serpentine belt on. Tighten enough so that you can put the serpentine belt on, then tighter to specification. Step 14 - Re-install remaining hoses and cover Re-install the coolant reservoir and the remaining radiator hoses, and re-attach the plastic engine cover. Step 15 - Finishing up Refill the radiator with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant and let the car run until it's warm. Check for leaks and continue adding through the radiator cap until the coolant level is correct. Featured Video: How to Replace Water Pump in Lexus IS. Related Discussions.
Fetchparts.com. Fixya.com. ClubLexus.com. Youtube.com Related Articles. How to Replace Water Pump Scott Deuty Replace that whining water pump at home with this guide. This article applies to the Lexus ES, RX (2005-2013).
Replacing the water pump on your Lexus ES or RX is intensive. How to Replace Thermostat Is your RX running hot? A new thermostat might be the cure to your Lexus' fever. This article applies to the Lexus RX (2007-2014).
An overheating engine can be one of the most damaging. How to Install Supercharger Kit ISboost300 Supercharging your motor is one of the most effective ways to add more power to your car.
This article applies to the Lexus IS (2001-2005). Going to forced induction can. How to Replace Serpentine Belt Worn accessory belts squealing like a banshee? Replace them yourself on the Lexus RX with this guide. This article applies to the Lexus RX (2007-2014). Traditionally, a serpentine. How to Replace Water Pump Replacing the water pump on your Lexus ES will prolong the life of your car by maintaining more than just the cooling system.
This article applies to the Lexus ES. How to Replace Thermostat Is the thermostat on your Lexus ES in need of replacement?
We've got a complete, step-by-step guide on how to get the job done, no matter what your skill level. This article applies to. Related Articles.
How to Replace Water Pump Scott Deuty Replace that whining water pump at home with this guide. This article applies to the Lexus ES, RX (2005-2013). Replacing the water pump on your Lexus ES or RX is intensive. How to Replace Thermostat Is your RX running hot?
A new thermostat might be the cure to your Lexus' fever. This article applies to the Lexus RX (2007-2014). An overheating engine can be one of the most damaging. How to Install Supercharger Kit ISboost300 Supercharging your motor is one of the most effective ways to add more power to your car.
This article applies to the Lexus IS (2001-2005). Going to forced induction can. How to Replace Serpentine Belt Worn accessory belts squealing like a banshee?
Lexus 200 Is
Replace them yourself on the Lexus RX with this guide. This article applies to the Lexus RX (2007-2014). Traditionally, a serpentine. How to Replace Water Pump Replacing the water pump on your Lexus ES will prolong the life of your car by maintaining more than just the cooling system. This article applies to the Lexus ES. How to Replace Thermostat Is the thermostat on your Lexus ES in need of replacement? We've got a complete, step-by-step guide on how to get the job done, no matter what your skill level.
This article applies to. Lexus How-Tos.
Ok, I got some questions about adding a better subwoofer and yes, I have searched a lot, but I can’t find the answers so here it goes. I just got a 2008 IS250 with the sound system that uses 13 speakers and the small Pioneer Amp. I do not have the NAV System, only the Radio/6 CD Player. I am very pleased with the stock sound from each set of speakers on each door (Tweeters, Mids and Woofers) but I am not happy with subwoofer in the back.
What I want to do is simple: Add a Subwoofer with a dedicated Amp to the trunk. Question 1: After reading many posts and looking at the wiring diagrams, I understand that the Stock Subwoofer has a Dual Coil setup rated at 2 Ohms/35Watts each.
Is this correct? Question 2: I understand that there is an Orange cable in the main harness for the Stock Amp that powers up when the car is turned ON.
Is this the correct cable to tab to get the signal to turn ON the new Amp or should I look for a different cable? If so, which one? Is there a cable that power up when the sound system is turned ON only? That would be the ideal as long it has enough current to give the new Amp a signal to turn ON. Question 3: I have a 4 channel Amp. Would it be wise to power up both my new subwoofer and the Stock Subwoofer too using this Amp, or should I disconnect the Stock Subwoofer and just use the new Subwoofer? Question 4: If the answer for my previous question happens to be to disconnect the Stock Subwoofer, then should I remove it from the panel so the new Subwoofer can be heard better inside the cabin?
Is the trunk insulation that good that I really need to do that? My plan if possible: using the 4 channel Amp, tab into each Stock Subwoofer channel + & - and power up my Subwoofer with a bridge setup using two channels, and power up the Stock Amp using the other two channels also in bridge mode. I would have to bridge also the Stock Subwoofer coils so my Amp sees them as 4 ohm (my Amp can only work as 4 ohm).
Thanks in advance. Question 2: I understand that there is an Orange cable in the main harness for the Stock Amp that powers up when the car is turned ON. Is this the correct cable to tab to get the signal to turn ON the new Amp or should I look for a different cable? If so, which one? Is there a cable that power up when the sound system is turned ON only? That would be the ideal as long it has enough current to give the new Amp a signal to turn ON. I forget if it is pink or orange.
I may have said orange in another post but I am starting to believe its pink. I would verify it for you but I didn't drive my car today. I do remember that it is all the way at the edge. I just recently replied to a post so check on that as well. Question 4: If the answer for my previous question happens to be to disconnect the Stock Subwoofer, then should I remove it from the panel so the new Subwoofer can be heard better inside the cabin? Is the trunk insulation that good that I really need to do that?
Its not simple to remove it (in my experience). The insulation around the stock sub is good so there's no need to remove it. The insulation in the trunk is also good, which makes the sub sound great. I have it in a sealed box and it is perfect. My setup is Alpine Type-R 12in Dual Coil with Alpine M-450 amp. It is slightly under powered but it hits hard enough for my taste. One thing you do need to do is to dampen the vibration from the little plastic hole cover in the back seat.
That's the only rattle I hear. Otherwise, its perfect. Thanks for the replies! Tmaung, I found your write up: “Adding an amp and sub is really easy. I took the speaker level input that were going into the stock sub and then wired them into my speaker level connector adapter for my amp. If you don't have that, then use an LOC 2 channel and get it out to line level. As for power cable, run it along the passenger side of the car.
Easy to pop up the door sills and it is pretty easy to just poke a hole through the rubber thing at the firewall. There should be a hole in the backseat (near the right rear passenger's arm) that will go into the trunk. The ground wire is just right by the spare tire. The remote wire is supposed to be tapped into the stock amp that is located on the passenger side of the trunk.
You just lift up the plastic piece. From the 4 harnesses in the back, it is the second harness closest to the front of the car. Look for a pink wire. You will need a 20-22 gauge (red) taps and that should get the signal to the amp. Be sure to take the negative terminal off the battery before any installation.
I blew 2 fuses during my amp + sub install and they were a pain in the butt to find at autozone. I had to go to the stealership where they charged me a butt load for each one. And just in case you blew the fuse while working on the stock amp, it is located by the battery under the hook (not the one by the steering wheel).” So I guess it is the Pink Wire and not the Orange. I also found the Harness Schematics so I will be checking colors on the paper against the real thing when I take it apart. About my idea of using one amp to power up both Subs, I forgot to mention that my Amp is a 4 Channel Amp that you can bridge two and two channels to make it a 2 channel, and that Channels 1-2 and Channel 3-4 have separate X-overs and Volume Levels so is like having two amps on one. My idea is to power up my Sub with Channels 1-2 (bridged to make it Mono) and the Stock Sub with Channels 3-4 (bridged also). I will have to wire the 2 coils for the Stock Sub in Series so my Amp sees a total of 4 ohms as it can only work on 4 ohms when bridged.
I plan to keep the volume for the stock Sub very low, just enough to move it but not to damage it, while I will blast all the way up the volume for my Sub. I was afraid the insulation in the trunk would block the Sub from being heard, but for what you said, there is no problem. To avoid taking apart the deck on the back, I think I’m going to cut the four cables from the stock Amp to the Stock Sub at the Amp level, re-direct them to my Amp, do the “series” connection right there at the cutting point, and connect the amplified signal from my amp back to the harness to feed the stock Sub. I won’t be doing this for a week or two as I have no time for now, so if you or anybody thinks my plan is a bad idea, please let me know so I can correct it before I get to work on it.
Again, thanks a lot! I actually only have one wire tapped in at the stock amp. What I did (without taking the top part of the back panel off) is to lift it up a little, unhook the harness from the stock sub and pop it down to the trunk (you need to take off one of the black clips from inside the trunk that is holding the cloth piece).
If you have a flashlight, you can easy do that with one hand without TAKING APART the back panel. I also did not tap any of the wires for the sub. I inserted the speaker level wire into the holes and held them in (if the hole is on the top of the harness i had the speaker wire shaped like a hanger into the hole and taped them to the harness one wire at a time). I am not sure if you understand clearly. If you have any questions, PM me at any time. I will try to get pictures soon. I am still cleaning up my car from my AVIC install and I just installed the intake last night.
I am going to NYC this weekend so I won't have time until next week for a picture. I still think having two subs is not a good idea. The lows will have different effect with the distance and air flow of the two subs. (I was just guessing that it would be hard to setup the gain/volume so its optimal for the front and the rear seats). Plus a four channel amp is not that powerful. Just get a nice decent mono amp. Because of the trunk insulation and the sealed box, my sub sounds really clear and precise in my case.
I understand what you are saying about the frequencies. That is another problem I知 not sure how to address. I was thinking originally to remove the stock Sub all together and leave the opening so the sound can really travel to the cabin. But since you said it is not really necessary, and better yet, now you also said that to access the stock sub is relatively easy without taking apart the deck, I might just use my own Sub.
I have another amp with me that is a two channel and that can be bridged to a Mono setup. If I have time, I might test each setup; otherwise, I will have to decide before I start working which setup to go for. I will try to take pics of whatever setup I make and post them with an explanation so others can also take ideas as well. Thanks again.
I値l look forward seeing your pics once you finish yours. Ok, last weekend I did my install. I decided to change the setup from my original plans as I didn’t really feel like taking apart the Stock Subwoofer. I got it to work, but I have some problems.
This is what I did: Setup I tab into the speaker lines for the Stock Subwoofer to get the signal. I didn’t cut the cables, just tab into them and ran both channels (as you should know, the Stock Sub has two 2 Ohms Channels for Dual Coil Setup): Channel 1 = Brown (+) & Green (-) Channel 2 = Pink (+) & Light Blue (-) I used a 2 Channel Amp that I had (I have three more amps in my house but this one was the best for this case) and used the High Level Input the amp has to connect both channels. I used the Orange cable to get the Remote Signal from the Stock Amp.
I have the schematics for the harness and the Stock Amp and I confirmed each wire to be the correct one matching both color and code. I made sure each tab was good, and double checked the connections once they were all ready. I can say there is no problem on that side. I used a 10” Sub and powered using the Bridge mode on my Amp.
Now I have the Stock Amp running the Stock Sub, and the new Amp running the new Sub. I played with the new Amp settings to make the sound as good and loud as possible without having distortion or clipping from the new Sub.
Adjusted the frequency and the gain to the best levels and left the x-over to the low option just to make sure we stay on the same note here (it shouldn’t make a difference as the original signal is already on the lows, but just in case). The sound is actually very good.
I am pushing 250 Watts from the new amp, and the Sub is rated at 300 Watts so is a perfect setup. I am happy with the sound quality, and it added just the right amount of extra power for the base that I was looking for. Problems: I have two problems. The first one, is the fact that a small amount of engine noise get through even when the head Unit is OFF. The second one happens when I turn OFF the engine. I hear a small “puf” sound.
I know this is coming from the new Sub. Usually both problems are related to bad Ground, but I made sure the Ground is good. I used one of the screws inside the trunk where the Spare Tire is (as advised by most people). I noticed that if I unplug the two channels from the Stock Amp to the New Amp, the engine noise is gone, so I think the problem is not Ground for the new Amp, but maybe for the Stock Channels. The New Amp has a ground wire for the High Level Input and I did connect it to the Ground, still the engine noise is there.
Solutions: Nothing yet, but I am accepting comments, ideas, suggestions, anything from anybody that might have a clue on this. The engine noise is not noticeable at all but it is there and it means there is a problem. The “puf” sound is kinda annoying and worries me as it could damage the amp and Sub eventually. Thank you in advance. Hey, I have two suggestions for ya.
You may want to move the ground connections from your aftermarket equipment to the same ground location as the factory amp. It is best to have the same reference point if possible. This is especially true for the high/low level converter.
It sounds like you are inducing noise into this component since it changes when you disconnect the stock sub from the circuit. Another thing. Please mind the phase of your new sub. The front surface of the stock subwoofer fires into the vehicle interior through the package tray.
Hence the rear surface is firing into the trunk and is of the opposite phase. Since the new sub is firing into the truck, you might have some phase problems so I would experiment with the new sub with +/- phases to see how it sounds. Also see if the sub thump changes with you disconnect the factory sub. This can tell where the thump is originating.
Hello, new to the forum, and quite an audiophile. My IS250 is about to run out of its 100k warranty, and I'd like to do some aftermarket tweaks to it, to make it a more enjoyable car, now that its off warranty and I wont violate anything. I've researched it a bit, and realize that I do not want to change out the head unit, as too many of the electrical systems run through the stock unit. I've also done several aftermarket speaker installs over the years on other cars, and after market speakers never seem to give a full strong audio range compared to a stock setup, but yet the stock speaker setups also do not meet my requirements.
I need some advice: First - I need to add an ipod/iphone unit to my stock head unit, any recommendations there? Am I able to install a 'stock' ML system into my non-ML IS250? And if I can, is it worth it?
(I think this would be the most optimal way to increase the sound quality in my car, but not sure how to go about it) Would it be better to just keep my stock install, and dynamat the doors/trunk to maximize the sound that I'm currently getting? I need my trunk space, but have found a few molded sub enclosures that fit in the corner of the trunk and allow for a 1cubic ft.
10' subwoofer to be installed. Is adding a subwoofer to the stock system an expensive/difficult journey? I really just want a strong 20hz = 40khz in my car.
I drive.a lot. and need my music to be pristine on my daily drives.
Sound quality is definately better than SPL for me, but I need a lot better than what I currently have. Thanks so much -craig. This has always been the age old question.' Is the stock OEM system good enough?, or,' if I replace some of the speakers with top quality after market ones will it really give me the range and distortion free sound I want? Then to it's the 'what about adding an amp for a sub to fill out the bottom' that most Lexus have never really been good.
The Mark Leninson systems has evolved over the years to be a truly top of the line in car sound system. That being said, almost all auiophiles find it lacking in one way or another.
Is this a suprise? First, if your a true audiopfile your never really happy with any thing audio. Thats what makes it fun.
Tweaking, tuning, constantly reading. The absolute worse environment to try and build a true audiophile standards system in is a car. Maybe one worse. I have an 2013 ES350 with a Kicker Sub-Station that has been in my 2005 ES, My 2010 ES, and now my 2013 ES. It is indestructalbe.
I run it off a 250w Alpine in the trunk. The improved OEM speakers this year have made it a great system for my taste. The major probem with trying to change the ML system is it's incredibly complex network of crossovers. Trying to replace one or two speakers such as the front doors,leads to throwing the balance of network off.
The other problem is that it is virtualy impossible to get a hold of a service manual or schmatic for their products. Even the Lexus dealers don't repair them. It's all unplug old part, plug in new part. I bought a DVD on ebay for a Mar Levinson Repair just for fun. It was for 2004. Below is a link to United Radio in New York. To my knowledge, they are one of the few if not the only place in the US that has the ability to work on ML systems.
Other members have used them and have been pleased with their service. Look them up for a phone number and see if they will give you advice as well as some oarts you might need like wiring harness, Come back here and let us know how things are going. Today I did this replacement, I bought a second hand ML amplifier with model 86280-0W360 which was used in IS300. I only replaced the amplifier and keep speakers unchanged, and find some music better but some worse, i don't know why, maybe I need to add more speakers or something else. I got the ML amplifier pins definition as below: P28-1: WF1+ P28-2: WF2+ (SR+) P28-3: MR+ (CTR+) P28-4: WFL+ P28-5: WF1- P28-6: WF2- (SR-) P28-7: ML- (SL-) P28-8: ML+ (SL+) P28-9: MR- (CTR-) P28-10: WFL- P29-1: WFR+ P29-2: FL+ P29-3: RL+ P29-4: RR+ P29-5: WFR- P29-6: FL- P29-7: FR- P29-8: FR+ P29-9: RL- P29-10: RR- The Pin definitions are same between ML and Pioneer, but sequence is different, I re-arranged the sequence of original lines to make it suitable for ML amplifier, and made the test, as what I said, some kind of music is better but some worse. Now I still have a problem, if you check the pin definition, you can find ML provides 2 kinds of output, for example P28-2: WF2+ (SR+), for the same pin, in different condition, it will output WF2+ OR SR+, someone told me this is dependent on whether your car has front-middle speaker, if is, ML will output SR+, if not ML will output WF2+, but how does ML amplifier know this information?
It makes me confused.
I made this video for basically anyone with a Lexus that wants to install an aftermarket Subwoofer and Amplifier to their stock Lexus, Mark Levinson, or Nakamichi car stereo system. I have a 2006 Lexus GS300 without navigation but the installation will be practically the same for any of you. You can even use this video guide to help you install your sub and amp onto practically any car. I will show you the simplest method available using a LOC (Line Output Converter), which allows you to tap into the speaker wires in your rear deck or factory subwoofer. Follow the guide and remember that you can ask me questions through commenting. Below I posted the specs of my aftermarket sound system.
Check out for Instant Prices on any type of remodeling project or new construction. You won't believe how simple it is. It does not matter what car you drive (Lexus, Mercedes, BMW, GMC, Chevrolet, Toyota, Nissan, Acura, Honda, Kia, Hyundai, Dodge, Buick etc.) because if you follow the my installation advice, you will be able to install a sound system into any car.
Subwoofer: $90 retail, I paid $46 Infinity Mobile 1060W SVC Power Handling, RMS 275 Watts Power Handling, Peak 1100 Watts Sensitivity 91dB Frequency Response 25Hz - 400Hz Impedance 4 Ohms Amplifier: $90 Soundstream Picasso PX2.200 Picasso Series 2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 70 watts x 2 chan., 2 ohms: 100 watts x 2 chan., Bridged, 4 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan. Subwoofer Enclosure: $40 10' Single Labyrinth Slot Vented Subwoofer Box 3/4' Obcon Line Output Converter: Freebie you can get a 2 channel for $25 at BestBuy Rockford Fosgate IEC AULOC Adjustable Line Output Converter, 2-50 watts. Used for converting high-level speaker line outputs from a source unit into low-level RCA jacks. 8 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit: $20 Subscribe to ProvenHelper Today & join in on the Sweet Life! Follow me on Social Media: I'm just getting started, but millions have been served with sweet additions to their lives already!